Driving past Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngaurahoe was a stunning entry to arriving in Taupo, and we hope to explore this a little more on our way back down the country in a few weeks.

We decided to have a couple of nights and a relaxed day in Taupo after a few long days of driving to get up to North Island. And what a good decision as is was a great place to chillax.

We did have time to enjoy the sunset

And it really was spectacular

Staying somewhere with stairs we are now needing to find ingenious ways of stopping Evie climb the stairs – her new favourite hobby!

The next day, after a trip to the doctors for me and my poorly ear, we headed to Taupo DeBretts Hot springs, as it said it had a good play area and it wasn’t very expensive.

Unfortunately Evie didn’t really appreciate the play area… too much splashing water for her!

But she did enjoy the coolest of the hot pools.

The rest of the pools were too hot – in truth as adults we couldn’t stay in long. More up our street were three fun fast water slides!

From the water park to the Huka Falls, a short drive away, this ferocious blue water is impressive – probably even more so from a jet boat.

Taupo is a beautiful lake to swim in as it is warm. We went in a few times, but without Evie, although we did think it may just have been warm enough.

Sadly it was then time to move on and leave Taupo. Maybe we will return.

A return to Taupo

We had wanted to go to climb Mt Taranaki, but reading about it we decided it would be too much to manage with Evie. So instead we headed back to Taupo on our way southwards, as we had liked it and fancied some lake to swim in, as opposed to sea, in the heatwave New Zealand is currently experiencing.

Waipahihi Botanical Reserve

Our accommodation was a bit out of town this time, but it was right next to the Waipahihi Botanical Reserve. This was a beautiful place to walk around and we made the most of it in the evenings. No formal gardens and few flowers, but lots of pretty walkways through a forest with some open spaces.

Craters of the moon

For $8 this was a nice area of thermal activity to walk around in about 1&1/2 hours. Steaming vents and bubbling mud pools, but no geysers here.

I love their warning sign – just incase you didn’t know

Biking the lakeside

Biking along the bike / walk track was much better than I anticipated. I didn’t realise how far it went around. And the lake just got more and more beautiful as you got towards Five Mike Bay.

It was so gorgeous that I text Tim to come and join us and we had a delightful swim in the same waters that seems so much bluer and clearer than they do on the shores of Taupo. Wished I had discovered these bays earlier!

Maori rock carvings

Nicely advertised, something you can only see by boat trip, these rock carvings were actually only carved 40 years ago. Despite them not being super old, they are still pretty cool and the boat trip was nice!

We did the shorter trip, which cost less. Probably I would rather have done the slightly longer trip which allowed you a swim, as well as a beer!!

Time to leave Taupo for the final time. Even after two visits there is still more you can do and see around here, definitely a place I’d recommend for a visit.

Kaikōura – a flying visit

Meeting up with Evie’s cousins for the last time on this trip we had a couple of hours in Kaikōura, as they were coming down the coast to fly home and we are headed northbound to Blenheim.

Kaikōura town itself very touristy based on whale, seal and dolphin watching, sits on a beautiful peninsula in a stunning location.

Grabbing a late picnic lunch we headed away from the town to Point Kean Viewpoint, with plenty of space for the boys to run around. With high tide we were unable to walk out to the point to see the Fur Seals, but it did means that there were great safe areas of the sea to jump into that felt like an enclosed pool even though it wasn’t. Refreshing on a hot day.

With the day coming to a close, we headed back to Kaikōura and had an amazingly fresh fish and chips together, would recommend the Blue Cod. It was then time to continue on our separate journeys and back in the car up to Blenheim, stopping briefly at the seal colony on route.

Whale watching

Another passing through, this time to enable me to go whale watching. Not something you are allowed to take babies on so it was just me.

One Sperm Whale

Pods of dusky dolphins

And a colony of fur seals later

I considered it a successful trip.

Then time to move on back to Christchurch.

Timaru botanical gardens

This was another good stopping point between Dunedin and Christchurch heading north up the coast. We had planned to go to the beach, but passed the gardens and stopped there instead.

Was a lovely place for a picnic, really pretty gardens, a nice place for a leg stretch from driving and for Evie to have a good crawl.

Sadly time to leave without time for the beach as well (it looked nice as we glimpsed it driving past) to get up to Christchurch in time for some dinner.

Moeraki boulders

Driving north from Dunedin, the Moeraki boulders make a good stopping point. And these are very unique large spherical boulders.

The beach is also very nice, with a good cafe and excellent chocolate ice-cream located above the beach!! We enjoyed a swim and paddle there before moving on.

The most important thing here is to time your visit with low tide – they do a disappearing act in high tide and loose their impressive impact. Also not a beach suited to buggies – we saw a couple of people struggling with them.

Te Anau and the sounds

Te Anau feels like a place I could come and spend considerably longer, as it seems like outdoor heaven. We were however blessed with very nice weather, which always helps.

There is a lovely track that was nice for short outings, which goes through Te Anau bird garden and along the head of the lake, good for walks, runs and gentle biking. It leads to the Kepler track with the cycle path continuing down the river bank for a while.

The Kepler Track

Starting from Te Anau, we only wandered down the Kepler Track for an hour. But within minutes you feel very deep into the Fjordland forest, enough to give you a feel of the forest. At this early stage there are pretty pebble beaches that you can drop down to, for a swim in the lake.

Lake Te Anau

Again we hit this place in the summer holidays in hot weather, but there were many people bringing their boats down to the jetty for some fun on the lake. The jetty at the head of the lake was deep enough to jump in from. So we big kids joined the local kids splashing around!

We boated across it on our glow worm cave trip and it is a place where you would definitely own a boat to go and explore all the little beaches and inlets.

Milford Sound

An early start for the drive to Milford, which takes about 1hr 45mins. We allowed good time incase of queues at the Homer Tunnel and so that we could feed and change Evie at Milford before getting on the boat. What we didn’t account for was the rain in Milford, the kind that doesn’t look that heavy but absolutely soaks you. Staying dry was not 100% achievable without waterproof trousers.

With rain we missed out on seeing the classic Milford view. However the rain did provide impressive waterfalls, and lots of them. And once we had resigned ourselves to being wet then getting more wet became part of the fun! Most importantly was that we had the right kit for Evie so she stayed warm and dry (on the inside!).

We had some food at the visitors centre, which I’d recommend the pizza! Then headed back, seeing Kea once again at the Homer Tunnel.

Out the other side and back to sunny Te Anau, where they had the sprinklers on to keep the grass green – what a contrast!! So down to the lake for a sunny evening stroll!

The glow worm caves

Wear insect repellent and cover up!!

A gorgeous boat trip from Te Anau over to the caves but the moment we stepped ashore we got bitten by sandflies and regretted our clothing choice!

You can’t take babies into the caves, but their trips work so that you can tag team and one sit or do the nature walk with the baby whilst the other goes into the caves and swap, so long as you do 1st and last groups between you.

Once in the caves, which are in themselves nicely done and impressive, the boat trip inside the cave and seeing the glow worms is like nothing else you will ever do. Imagine the best nights sky, the stars within your reach, but you can only enjoy looking…. it is amazing. Too amazing to explain really, best to experience.

Doubtful sound

Unlike Milford, this was a trip where you were taken care of from beginning to end.

We set off on the 8am trip, with a beautiful cruise across Lake Manapouri. It was nice as we got on board to be told where the nappy change facilities were without even asking. Evie and me had our breakfast on this first boat and we still had time to enjoy the view.

From the first boat to a coach, our driver was full of interesting information on our way over Wilmot Pass, which passed through gorgeous mossy ancient beech forest.

The pass peaked at 671m and cost and amazing $2/cm2 to build!!

Less planned was Evie’s ‘singing’ through his whole talk with it being very difficult to keep her voice down in an excited 9month old! And then the urgent nappy change required, which had to wait till we got onto the next boat.

We were very lucky with the weather and got stunning views down into Doubtful Sound.

On to the second boat and just as we set off there was a pod of dolphins that joined us and rode the bow of the boat for a while – magical.

Cruising the 40km we went along the length of the sound and had the good fortune of weather that allowed us to watch a fur seal colony just where the sound became the sea, and then venture out for a period into the Tasman Sea and look down the untouched coastline.

Time to turn around, via a bit of engine off quiet time in one of the arms of the sound. Another magical moment when no one on board spoke for a few minutes and a single dolphin played in the water nearby.

In all this time Evie had a good sleep and then a good romp around the boat. The nice thing is there is lots of safe crawling space!

Time to return back to Manapouri via the coach and boat return and then drive on to Dunedin for tonight in hope of seeing the penguins.

Queenstown and around – Christmas week 2018

Arriving in Queenstown on a wet and wild evening, for Christmas week in the New Zealand summer, we were then exceptionally lucky and blessed with a week of sunshine.


Queenstown itself doesn’t have a huge waterfront, but it’s bustling with plenty do to, including a fantastic play area. To me, it is like the New Zealand Windermere of the Lake District – everything a tourist could possibly want, from shops to cafes & restaurants to fun galore.

Mini golf

For a bit of fun we had gone to play the indoor mini golf as it is awesome – a must if you have a couple of spare hours. Sadly it was closed so instead we played the outdoor mini golf. Still fun but standard. I discovered it is hard to play with a mini in a front sling!

So in the end we let Evie romp and she made the course even more difficult!

These are both located at the bottom of the gondola.

The Gondola

Easily walkable from the centre of town, this takes you up the mountain for a great view, and if you choose, paragliding, bungi jumping and riding the luge. For us though, it knocked an hours walk off each end of our bigger walk up Ben Lomond.

Ben Lomond

You may think this mountain is in Scotland, but it also exists in Queenstown! This must be one of the most popular walks given the number of people doing it. But it is obvious why once on it.

From the top of the gondola the path winds through the woods a short way before starting an unremitting ascent to the top.

It was a 1&1/2 hrs walk to the saddle. It’s unusual that we take as long as walking signs suggest, but on this walk we did! The saddle is a good place to stop at for turkey sandwiches round 1, for it has great views of the next mountain range across.

From here it got more rocky underfoot and was a harder steeper ascent, and Evie started to few super heavy! I have to admit (and this is unusual for me), that I nearly suggested that our view was good enough and we could turn back. However, so long as you can see the summit, it’s worth it.

The view from the top was nothing short of remarkable.

It is definitely Evie’s highest peak at 1,748m and we therefore woke her up to appreciate the view! She told us later how much she loved it.

Taking special care on the first part of the descent, and stopping for Turkey sandwiches round 2 back on the saddle, we then made our way back down. Although expensive, I was by this point super pleased of the lift down as both our feet were super painful.

At the gondola cafe we treated ourselves to smoothies and fries before heading back down for the evening.


Again, the New Zealand version of this Scottish sounding place. It was about a 40 minute drive from Queenstown and a beautiful spot. We liked the sound of the lagoons and thought they would be a great place to hang out and swim. Reality was that although they had their own prettiness, they were very shallow and silty.

Despite Finley repeatedly asking if we were going in, after I watched Tim wade and get not deeper than his shins, kicking up silt with every step, even as someone who swims whenever possible, here did not inspire me to get wet!

So after a hot picnic on a small jetty, we headed back to the head of the Lake Wakatipu and there we did swim. Jumping off the jetty and in and off the swimming platform, into the gorgeous blue water. Evie had a little paddle but was not hugely amused at the cold temperature of the water! So she hung out with Granny & Granded.

The Remarkables walks

Just out of Queenstown past the airport, you can drive up the steep hairpin road to The Remarkables ski area.

From this car park two walks are signposted.

Tim, Evie, Granny & Grandad went to the lake, which took about an hour to walk to. It looks a pretty special place.

Nick, Cath, Joseph, Finley and myself went on a slightly longer walk to the Lookout, as the terrain wasn’t suitable for all. We even managed a snowball fight and some bum sledging in the patches of snow left still in December. From here was a spectacular view over Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu.

Kelvin Heights Peninsula

This is a nice sheltered bay that looks across to Queenstown but is very easy to get to by car. With a golf course in the middle but woods around the outside, you can walk or cycle around the peninsula, walking for about an hour. The water is a beautiful blue which just makes you want to jump in. It’s also where the locals seem to hangout with all their water toys.

Queenstown trail

Back on the bike, the Kelvin Heights Peninsula is a section of the Queenstown Trail that is nice to cycle. When you have biked around the peninsula and through a small housing estate you can then continue along the Queenstown trail to Jacks point. This is a gorgeous section of trail looking down on Lake Wakatipu. However, still being new to having Evie on the back of my bike rather than in a trailer, and with the path a bit loose under wheel, I pushed up the steeper hills but we enjoyed whizzing down. From previous experience you can continue doing a bit of mountain biking around Jacks Point. Not for us on this day though.

Swimming in the lake

We were incredibly lucky to be staying in a family house that looked onto and had access to Lake Wakatipu.

Although super cold (far too cold for Evie), it was great fun to jump into and enjoy a refreshing cool off after a hot summers day.

Even Grandad couldn’t resist the tempting waters and braved the cold for a swim.

A warm Christmas Day

Christmas doesn’t seem to be a big thing in New Zealand, but Santa and his reindeer still got left their drink, mince pie and carrot to ensure that we were not forgotten out here.

He thoughtfully left some very small gifts that Joseph and Finley helped Evie to open.

A nice walk around the Kelvin Peninsula, a turkey dinner and then (apparently) a New Zealand style pudding, a pavlova.

Merry Christmas one and all – time to move on in our trip.


When we passed through Tekapo three years ago we were super lucky as it looked like this and we jumped straight into the lake for a swim!

No such luck on this occasion despite visiting it on three successive days, they have been pretty cloudy. On the upside, it didn’t rain much! And the water still looked a beautiful vivid blue.

Known for the Church of the Good Shepherd, a tiny little church that sits on the shores with a window that has the most fabulous view that looks on to Lake Tekapo, it is an idyllic spot and great stopping point.

At this time of year the lupins are in full bloom and add another element of beauty to this region of New Zealand.

You can go down the road towards the observatory and walk in fields full of lupins, of all different colours. Or if you are a crawling baby you can play hide and seek amongst the lupins!

For a spot of luxury, at $27 per adult, head to the Tekapo springs, a great place to chill out. It has adult only pools and a kids pool and fun area. Or for Evie the best part was lots of time being able to practice her walking in the water! Quite happy going back and forth and chasing small balls!

And if you fancy a short walk, there is a 1hr walk up Mt John, to the observatory and cafe on top (you can also drive up to it). Easy enough for the whole family to manage. On a good day I’d imagine that you would get splendid views for miles around. For us we watched a storm roll in whilst the thunder was booming…. didn’t bother Evie though!

No swimming here on this visit, but still a gorgeous place and one not to be missed.

Cave stream / Broken river cave

Our friends Mary & Andy treated us to a day out from Christchurch to go cave-river walking. 40km from Arthur’s Pass, this cave sits just off the road side. We had driven away from drizzle in Christchurch and after going over Porters Pass via a pie shop, we landed in glorious sunshine.

Having Evie with us (who we clearly could not take caving), we split into two and took turns.

The boys went first whilst the girls had a picnic and took in the view.

We then went to meet them coming out, and they had had a great time.

Before swapping over.

At 594m long, it took a good about 45 minutes to get through. A bit scrambley in places getting up small waterfalls inside the cave. For us the water was surprisingly warm which made it a ‘pleasant exciting’ rather than ‘cold exciting’. A good quality head torch is required, without one you wouldn’t get further than the first corner as you can’t see you hand in front of your face with the lights out.

Climbing a ladder to exit the cave Mary & me had a nice welcome party!

From here we whizzed to the top of Arthur’s Pass to make the most of the weather and amazing views before returning back to Christchurch.

Thanks Mary & Andy for a day with a difference and heaps of fun and showing us a place we will hopefully return to.

Around Christchurch

We had a few days to get over the jet lag, buy a car and have a look around Christchurch. Having been here 3 years previous soon after the destructive earthquakes, it has been interesting to see the changes. Now a modern city but still with a few stark reminders, the most obvious one being the cathedral.

We visited the botanical gardens, where Evie paddled in the kids pool and hankered after our ice-cream!

She then fell asleep as we met up and walked around the greenhouses and rose gardens with a good friend I left in New Zealand on my travels over 10 years ago for a year, and she never returned to the UK.

And climbed the massive tree!

There are also some big redwoods in the gardens with branches so big you can swing on them

And of course as a baby you may consider trying to climb one (not much different to everything else she currently tries to climb!)

We will definitely be returning to Christchurch a couple of times in this trip as we know there is lots more to see, but we ran out of time, with buying a car and catching up with friends taking precedence .